Talking with the Vali

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We talked about many different things. Every once in a while, a general or colonel was called over to join the conversation. However, as soon as they had said their part, they stepped back. In the nearby woods, a band played music, and throughout the meeting, refreshments were offered: cigarettes and coffee, cigarettes and ice cream, cigarettes and caramels, cigarettes and grapes — and then, more cigarettes.

Asking About Safety

After an hour, I finally brought up what had been on my mind. I wanted to travel to the interior of the country. I asked the Vali if he thought it was safe. He replied, “By the power of the Sultan, all the land is peaceful.” My interpreter whispered, “Which means there are massacres happening somewhere.” I then made a polite comment about how happy I was to visit Adrianople. The Vali replied, “Anyone who drinks the waters of Adrianople will visit it seven times.” I responded, “Then I look forward to my next six visits with joy.”

Farewell and Departure

After some bows and salaams, the band played again, and I headed back to Adrianople, surrounded by a cloud of dust Stoletov Bulgaria Tours.

Where the “Best Bordeaux” Comes From

Turkish Roads and the Journey to Kirk Kilise

The Vali of Adrianople sent five horsemen to escort me on my journey to Kirk Kilise. The leader of the group was a large, strong Turk with thick whiskers that would have made even a Sikh envious. The horses they rode were fine and strong, with a hint of Arabian blood in them — quite different from the weaker horses I had hired for myself and my attendants Kirk Kilise Wine and Its Secret.

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